If you get sweaty palms watching the cooking intensity of Iron Chef you’ll know how excited I was to be part of the 5th annual Nickel City Chef cook-off in Buffalo this year. Taking place over four weekends, I was asked to be a judge for the final competition on April 14th.
Chef Adam Goetz and sous-chef Adam Cook trying to beat the clock.
The chefs in the challenge both wield impressive resumes of training and cooking internationally and across the US. Chef Adam Goetz who was days away from opening a new resto called Crave has previously been Executive Chef Saucier at the Waldorf Astoria Hotel.
What do you want people to know about the food scene and chefs in Buffalo?
I want visitors to understand that while we may be known for chicken wings, limiting the understanding of our food scene to a common bar snack is not unlike assuming NYC is made of nothing but pizza. We share the same terroir as Ontario, so those restaurants that focus on local, seasonal fare are as adept and capable as a good Toronto restaurant. We also have more independent restaurants per capita, than many other cities our size, with very few chains located within the city limits. An abundance of young, engaged, well-traveled chefs have returned to open their own restaurants here, and while it may not obvious to those who come to Buffalo to see a game or shop at the mall, there is a groundswell of passion here for the excellent dining experiences that can be had.
What frustrates you about people’s perception of the Buffalo culinary scene?
It makes me sad to think that visitors choose to eat at chain restaurants. If I thought that Toronto was only the few blocks surrounding the Air Canada Centre or the inside the Eaton Centre, I’d have missed out on so many amazing, delicious meals! And while it would be wrong of us not to embrace the Buffalo chicken wing as part of our city’s edible history, it is not the summation of our region.
What is your goal with Nickel City Chef?
Nickel City Chef seeks to showcase Buffalo’s culinary talent, giving a proper stage to our hardworking chefs and skilled farmers.
The secret ingredient was fresh cheese: mozzarella and burrata from Nickel City Cheese and Mercantile
Felix making choices at Nickel City Cheese
As for the menu, here it is. Both were outstanding, especially given the limited time but Chef Edward Forster won the competition…this time.
— Nickel City Chef Adam Goetz, Crave
Nickel City Sous Chef DJ Cook
Course 1:
Fresh Mozzarella and OrangeAgnolotti
Braised swiss chard, tomato, pecans, brown butter
Crispy Sweetbreads
Pancetta, fine herbes, carrot mousse, peppered buratta medallion
Course 2:
Rack of Lamb
Burrata polenta, asparagus, red pearl onion, spicy squash, beech mushroom, fried mozzarella, tomato beurre rouge, herbed burrata quenelle
Course 3: Cheese Course
Buratta, wild mushroom crostini, tomato strawberry chutney, herbed parmesan shortbread, balsamic, fresh mozzarella, pine nut brittle, compressed watermelon, kalamata powder —
Challenging Chef Edward Forster, Mike A @ Hotel Lafayette
Challenging Sous Chef Scott Crombie Course 1:
Fresh Mozzarella Salad ( I LOVED THIS)
Pine nuts, herbs, hay smoked mozzarella, olive tapenade
Course 2:
Mozzarella-stuffed Quail
Braised barley, English peas, black barley burrata, pea-stained whey broth
Course 3:
Warm Mozzarella Tart
Rhubarb and strawberry compote, long pepper, almond
The Mansion (of my dreams) on Delaware
And one last thing–for an amazing weekend getaway, book some dinners in this emerging culinary destination and stay at the Mansion on Delaware. So beautiful, so comfy, so luxurious….the service impeccable but relaxed. Amazing buffet breakfast and lovely happy hour in the beautiful sitting rooms. We will be back as soon as we can. Leaving is not easy.
Out of the way triple-cream cheese, Burrata is here. Here for a good time, not a long time (in the wise lyrics of the Trooper song. They used to have burrata thrown on stage during concerts.). As much as you want your Mozzarella di Bufala to be fresh, you want your Burrata to be newborn. You want the exterior to be delicate and tender as possible while the inside is creamy, oozy heaven. Heaven in this case being small, elastic bits of the torn mozzarella (stracciatella) mixed with rich cream. It should be buttery, sweet and fresh in flavour. It should make you weep. Just a little bit.
Makes you feel a little savage. I WANT THIS NOW!
Burrata was once upon a time made with buffalo milk but now it’s made mainly cow’s milk. Originating in Southern Italy (in Puglia) the name comes from the Italian word “burro” (butter). You might find it wrapped in green leek-like leaves called “asphodel” and the fresher/greener the leaves, the fresher the burrata.
More importantly, I have not yet made you drool to the maximum. Here is the burrata “fork to mouth”. My mouth. And I never even made it to the bread.
Crazy Good. More than Pop Tarts even.
No matter what you do, if you rip this open in the car while driving or serve it at home– please–eat it at room temperature. Warm it in a bowl of warm water (in a plastic bag or whatever wrap it came in) if you can’t wait to get to it. Like batteries, you can hold it under your armpit to warm it up but this is best done out of site of guests or even the general public.
Most importantly, don’t share. That’s just a crazy idea. Your kindergarten teacher did not know about burrata when she taught you that rule. (Though, she was right about not eating the glue even if it was glittery and bright.)
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