Category Archives: Ruminations on the Edible

Food inspired writing

Duck, Duck, Duck Eggs…

Quack not Peep.

Duck Eggs, $1 each.  Three left.  East York Civic Centre Farmer’s Market.  Wrapped in half a torn carton vacated by previous egg tenants.

The Toddler Hand is Quicker than The Parental Eye.

Imagine a rather shrill shriek emitting from somewhere inside me, “Don’t touch!”.  Then in a calm, firm, Supernanny-approved tone I bent down to eye level and rephrased, “These are duck eggs. We only have three.  If you break one I will make you lay it again.”   But I smiled while I said it so it seemed friendly.

The yolk was very intense and orange. Boiled for 6 minutes so the yolk slightly firmed but was gooey in the middle.  Still good for dipping crusts of toast.  5 minutes would have been runny.

Essentially:

Brought water to boil.

Brought eggs to room temperature by holding in warm water.

Pierced end of eggs with a needle.

Added to boiling water for 6 minutes and then into ice water to stop cooking.

Cut off top.

Licked yolk and salt off fingers.


Leave a comment

Filed under Ruminations on the Edible

Oh, What A Perfect Day

It was my birthday Saturday.  Sure, I’m talking about it.  It was pretty good.  Three great events.

1. GOATS

I had the good fortune to tag along to Idyllwood Farms with Vivian Szebeny of Upper Canada Cheese

I discovered that baby goats come packed in blue storage containers. A stackable goat-herd is very practical for condos or other small dwellings.

A Gemini like me. Though my face is less furry.

BISTRO

Ici Bistro actually.  Champagne to start and Grand Marnier souffle to finish.  Also discovered from my mother that I practically was raised on veal brains (they sold them at Safeway).  Apparently a popular dinner scrambled with eggs or breaded like schnitzel.  Also we used to inflate pigs bladders and use them as balls (wait, I think that was Little House on the Praire).  Such a similar life though.

This was sablefish in a lemon beurre blanc with white asparagus and tomato coulis.

WOODY ALLEN

Well, it’s true, I love Woody Allen.  When I go to New York I have these little fantasies that I bump into him (usually in Central Park) and then I don’t know what happens after that part because I absolutely cannot be normal around famous people, not even Jim Cuddy from Blue Rodeo.  Who I stood behind once when we were crossing the street at Yonge and Bloor and even that made me feel queasy in an “OMG it’s the back of  Jim Cuddy!!!!” way.

Til next year then.

3 Comments

Filed under Cheese/Cheese Related, Restaurants and Products, Ruminations on the Edible

Not to beat a dead nut bar or anything (recipe)

Dried blueberries, cherries, pineapple, macadamia nut. What more can I tempt you with??

Made my brother’s nut bars with my friend Lisa yesterday and our combo turned out awesome (yes, awesome, MACLEANS’s).  So here it is.  For the detailed directions go to my brother’s recipe HERE.  Don’t freak out, it just looks complicated and scientific.  Actually it’s just a bunch of stirring and putting a tray into the oven– but he has great tips for substituting ingredients and doing your own thing

Our combo was:

SEEDS:

1/2 cup sunflower
1/2 cup ground flax

NUTS

1 cup chopped pecan
1 cup chopped walnut
1 cup chopped macadamia nut
1 cup cashews

Fruit

1 cup dried pineapple
1 cup dried blueberry
1 cup dried cherry

Oats

1 cup rolled oat
1 cup granola

BINDING  AGENT

3/4 cup honey
1/2 cup brown sugar

1 ounce butter
1 ounce pumpkin seed butter

1 tsp salt
1 tsp real vanilla extract (scraping in a vanilla bean might be awesome.)

LES INSTRUCTIONS:

Preheat oven to 350 F.  Line a cookie tray with parchment and set aside (for final baking of bars).

Meanwhile, chop up your nuts if need be.  Chop up fruit and have it ready (only if you want smaller chunks–we did chop the pineapple but not the cherries. If you even consider chopping the blueberries you are the nut bar in this recipe.)

Put the oatmeal/granola and nuts/seeds on a couple trays (just divide any which way) and warm in the oven for 20 minutes.  Check to make sure nothing burns.  I turned down the heat to 300 F half-way through.

Melt the honey, brown sugar, butter and pumpkin seed butter plus the vanilla and salt in a large pot (must be able to hold all the ingredients).

Add the fruit and stir to coat.  Add the rest of the dry stuff (oats, nuts, seeds) still warm.  Mix to coat (it will look like there is not enough binding agent but it works perfectly.)  Pour the whole mixture onto a tray lined with parchment.

Flatten it and it should make a nice thick layer.   Bake at 350 F for 15 minutes.  We checked it at 12 but it was still a bit “gooey”.  15 minutes did the trick.

Cool and slice.   Feel awesome.

Leave a comment

Filed under All Recipes, Blogs with cooking tips, Ruminations on the Edible

Breaking free of the 100 mile diet and feeling fine

My fleeting one-month stand, Alphonso

Alphonso flew in from India.  I felt I had to see him.  And peel him. And cut him up. And eat him and be sticky. Because he’s only here for a brief time (season is April-May), so who am I to hum and haw about his homeland being slightly out of the 100-mile loop of India.

No, you can’t get Alphonsos at the local market (and yes, I love to shop at the local market–yay corn, yay carrots, yay elk meat) but deliciousness is deliciousness. ( I know–one can say that about veal and foie gras and Cheetos too) but FOCUS people.  This is an experience that is truly unique and yes, comes from another country.  But these are not foreign potatoes than we can grow in our own backyard.

Morning Mango--and I'm usually anti-fruit with breakfast.

The colour of the Alphonso is more intense then the orange of a pumpkin shell.  The fleshy interior is soft, yielding and not at all stringy…and the flavour…it’s  Super Duper Duper Mango–rich, sweet and with a slight perfumed aroma.

My box of Alphonsos came by way of Kohinoor Foods at Gerrard and Ashdale.  Our friend Ron got the Tweet alert.  Marilyn, his wife, called the store and was told the shipment had arrived the previous evening.  She kindly picked us up a box.  They will not be available as long as usual because the crop was affected by colder than usual weather this past winter.

So go to Little India and talk to the shopkeepers and have them pull out a special box of these mangoes from behind the counter  (with a knowing look in their eye).  And squeeze them a bit and pay the $25 for one box, and feel happy as you see the shipping sticker that says, “Air India”.

And go home dreaming about the best mango lassi you’ve ever had in your life, just a blender whrrrrrr  away.  Made with local yogurt of course.  Duhhh….

Darling, save the last mango pit for me....

 

1 Comment

Filed under Blogs with cooking tips, Ruminations on the Edible

Dave’s Nutbar Recipe (more thorough than a prostrate exam)

Top Secret Ratios

These Nut Bars make a great energy boost after an exhaustively uplifting episode of Glee or before an emotionally draining episode of Grey’s Anatomy.

In case you can’t quite follow the arrows and my brother’s handwriting, here’s how we made the super-tatsy, energy-supplying, don’t die hungry if stranded in the forest (or a big mall) nut bars.

The recipe is below but anything in RED is my brother’s advice from his many nutbar tests.  My sister-in-law read his comments and thinks she is married to Alton Brown.  I read his comments and wondered how he does anything else aside from making nut bars.

Ratio for solid ingredients:

(assuming 1 cup=1 part in this case to work with binding agent measurements)

1 part Seeds (pumpkin, sunflower, flax ect)

Sesame seeds are great. Use ground flax, unprocessed flax just passes though your system with little benefit.  Ground flax is a great way to add fiber to the bars.  I think in the batch we used we crushed a bunch of bran cereal as a substitute.  If you like seeds, you can also replace some of the nuts with seeds.

2 parts Oats/granola (half should be rolled oats)

Any dry complex carbohydrate can be used here. No need for sugar so you can go all oats. For a nuttier bar, use only rolled oats. They have a lower GI.   (Some may not like the texture/taste. Personally this is a good thing because it leave more bars for me to eat.)

 In a bind, you can go ghetto and add puffed rice. There is enough quick energy in the sugars of the binding agent, so aim for carbs with a LOW glycemic index. (http://www.glycemicindex.com/)

3 parts Dried fruit (roughly chopped cherries, apricots, raisins, prunes, blueberries ect)

Stay away from any fibrous fruit. No dried apple, peach, mango, etc… I wasn’t so fond of the  prunes either. Pineapple, apricot and dried cherries are the best. no need to chop the cherries.  Better not to actually.

Oh, FINELY chopped candied ginger gives the bars a nice aromatic flavour.  Do not use more than 1/2 cup… 1/4 cup is plenty.

4 parts Nuts (roughly chopped almonds, hazelnuts, walnuts, pecans, macadamia nuts, brazil nuts ect)

If you hate chopping, either buy pre-chopped nuts (they are cheaper) or use some combination of walnuts and cashews. In the later case, after you measure out all the nuts, you can just crush them by hand in a large bowl… make sure to do this before you add the oats or crushing them by hand will be harder/more messy.

Binding Agent

3/4 cup honey  (do not substitute–Dave has tried and for some reason honey is key)

Honey is 1.5% sucrose, 7% maltose and the remainder nearly equal parts of fructose and dextrose with a little bit of H2thrown in. You could probably use some combinations of other liquid sugars that works out to the same ratios.  My guess is that corn syrup would work here. Its about 50/50 fructose/glucose IIR.

1/2 cup brown sugar (can try molasses or corn syrup)

Any sucrose can be used… maple syrup is nice, but you will need to bake the final product a little longer, or boil it off by simmering the binding agent for a little longer.

2 ounces fat (butter or oil)  This is necessary to keep the bars chewy and not hard.

It’s not important what type of fats you use, if you prefer unsaturated fats you can use olive oil, sesame oil, etc.  I favour Macadamian nut butter. The little jar I bought had the  almost the same grams of fat per volume as butter.  It give the bars a really nice creamy taste.  It is expensive though. As a rule of thumb, just keep the fats equal to those found in 2oz of butter. DO NOT USE PEANUT BUTTER. It will ruin the bar… tried several times. You need too much of it to give you the fats you need and all that peanut butter turns the bars into dense bricks.  If you want a peanut taste, add crushed peanuts!

vanilla (to taste)

salt (to taste–careful if you’ve used salted nuts))

**you can add other spices, cocoa powder or flavouring in here too–maybe anise extract?

Directions:

1. Combine nuts, oats and seeds and warm in oven at 350 F for 15 minutes.

Be careful not to toast them too much. They will get another 20 minute bath of heat soon. The point here is to just warm them up so they will not shock the binder into solidifying.  The warm nuts make it easy to combine evenly with the binder.

2. In a large pot combine the binding agent ingredients and melt til smooth.

3. Add in the dried fruit mix and then add in the other dry ingredients-mix till all combined and coated.

Be careful how long you leave the fruit in the simmering binder before the nuts are added. They will quickly start to absorb the binder and leave less to hold the bars together.  I guess you could use this to your advantage if you have some fluid to remove like the case where you used maple syrup instead of crystallized sucrose.

4. Line a cookie sheet with parchment.  Flatten the mixture onto the parchment.

5. Bake at 350 F for 20 minutes.  (you want the bars to lose some moisture and become solid, but not too crunchy so check them at the 12-15 minute mark).

The only thing you can check here is whether or not the bars are burning (getting too dark). The sugars at this temperature will make the flattened goo seem softer than it will be when everything cools. Stick with 15-20 minutes for your first batch. Every combination of ingredients, even if you keep to the 4-3-2-1 ratio will require a slightly different bake time. This is where practice makes perfect. The other bake time factor is the thickness of the bars.  The thicker they are, the harder it is for the moisture in the center to escape. When experimenting with your bars, try different sizes of cookie sheets that allow you to play with the thickness.  Erin likes gooier bars than I do, so you could even make half a sheet a bit thicker for the goo lovers and thin out the other side for a harder (and cleaner) bar.

Cool and divide.

Winter is dangerous… the bars cool fast and cold bars get brittle.  It’s best to cut them slightly over room temp.  If you cool them in the fridge or freezer and forget about them, it’s better to let them warm up before cutting.

Back to Sue:

I’m now excited and terrified to make these on my own.  Because if I screw these up after the minute instructions supplied by Dave, I will run into the woods wearing only nylons and a bandana and chew on tree bark until I pass out from sobbing.

6 Comments

Filed under All Recipes, Blogs with cooking tips, Ruminations on the Edible

Busting (out) Some Sicilian Balls

Can I be this good? We shall see.

It wasn’t until I had the addictive arancine at Enoteca Sociale that I decided to try and make them myself. They were so delicious that I could not bear to be without immediate access in my own home.  When I say immediate I mean after you’ve made the rice and the ragu for the filling and dredged them and deep fried them.  But after that–they’re ready in a jiff!  But I’m getting ahead of myself.

The arancine would be my first foray into deep-frying (in my own kitchen). My bible would be The Saveur ‘Sicily” issue (March 2011), currently sitting on the back-burner of my desk taunting me with amazing recipes for local Sicilian dishes (recipe here).

I made the ragu in advance.  Not so much an indication of proper planning and forethought–more a result of “Oh crap– that beef has been sitting in the fridge forever”  Which is why the pictures below, taken at 11pm at night under tungsten lights are a bit….yellow.   I started out with a finely chopped mirepoix (celery, onion, carrot) which I sautéed until soft.

You then add in ground beef and ground pork and cook until browned.  Finally you add fresh, strained tomato sauce and some tomato paste and simmer until it thickens (30 minutes-ish).

Finally, let the sauce cool and put it in the fridge.  Meanwhile you make your rice.  In my case, you make the sauce and put it in the fridge and make the rice 2 days later. (as you can see, it might just be faster to cross town and go to Enoteca Sociale for my arancine fix).  But less an adventure.

Love this machine. Less incidence of runny mascara. (and mascara is KEY to a good arancine.)

For the rice you begin with a minced, small red onion and sautéed over medium til softened. The you add 1 1/2 cup Arborio rice.

Arborio Rice- pearly white, short-grained rice used for risotto

Once you stir in the rice and coat with the oil and onion, you add the key ingredient “1/4 tsp crushed saffron“.  Well, it did not even occur to me I did not have saffron.  Until I could not find it–did I hastily purge it one day in with “clean out the pantry” conviction?  Or was it just stuck somewhere in a large crack in the back of my very deep, 1960s cupboards which would require removing about 15 bottle of various oils and vinegars to even begin a search.  What to do!?  So much for mise-en-place.

I had no choice, I just added some turmeric for colour at least.  (Shhh, don’t tell anyone in Sicily).  Then I added 1 1/2 cups water, brought it up to a boil and removed it from the heat.  You need to let it sit for 20 minutes.

In case your imagination can't handle a covered pot with arborio rice inside.

I grated 2 tbsp of parmesan while I waited and stirred that into the rice with some salt and pepper.

Once everything is combined you spread the rice on a tray and let it cool.

Don’t you (kind of) want to press your face into this?

Meanwhile you can make your batter by whisking together 1/4 cup flour, 2 eggs and 1/2 cup water. Set up a separate bowl for the bread crumbs.

At this point, I am thinking, this is so much fun.

Assembly:  You take a hearty tbsp of the rice in your hand a flatten it into a disc. Then make a bit of a well in the centre and then put in about 1 tbsp of your cooled ragu.

Using your fingers you bring the edges of the rice around the filling to gently enclose the ragu.  Finally you roll the ball around in your hand to seal it and to slightly compact the mixture. The recipe makes 2 dozen arancine.

It works. Now to make 23 more.

It took a bit of practise to figure out how much ragu was too much, and to seal it without the ragu showing through.  Donna, our babysitter, had actually stayed to watch me finish and I think after one ragu ball and 23 more to go she was regretting her enthusiasm.  “I’d just buy them frozen” she said.  (Have I mentioned how much more efficient Donna is than me?)

Finally, they were done.  I actually made 22, so I think I sized them fairly well.

Now to dredge in the batter and coat in the bread crumbs.

Pre-dredge.

I started heating up the Canola oil in my Dutch Oven bringing it up to 360 F.

Battered and ready for service. Enoteca here I come!

I fried the arancine in batches of four.

Frying arancine feels rustic, unlike frying mozzarella which feels like a hangover.

Recipe says to pop them into the hot oil for about 3 minutes until the exterior is golden.  I timed it and 3 minutes seemed about right.  Finally my 22 balls of arancine are down and cooling on paper towels.

Oh boy--I wish there was more than two adults and a toddler to eat 22 of these.

And voila! (wait, that’s French) ummm, Tah-Dah!  Is that universal?  My Sicilian balls were a success.  I will make these again.  Maybe in advance and then just deep fry them at the last minute for an appetizer or a patio snack if you were entertaining.

Suck it Enoteca Sociale.

Anything I would do differently?  Well, not eat five in a row.  Remember the saffron.  Also, the rice seemed like it could have been cooked a little more though I followed the recipe and it had absorbed all the water.   (Ok, fine, don’t suck it Enoteca Sociale–you’re still better than me.  For now.)   Maybe I need to be better aquainted with the brand of arborio rice I had.  Overall though–I love Sicily!  Especially if a Sicilian nona wants to make these for me.  Maybe an ad for Craigslist.

3 Comments

Filed under All Recipes, Restaurants and Products, Ruminations on the Edible

Oh Brother, Where Art Thou Nut Squares?

The Dave Riedl Nut Bar-- half tray (he was just slumming)

When someone uses the term “binding agent” in a recipe that they recite off the top of their head and it’s broken down into a ratio of ingredients (by carbs, fibre and some other healthy categories that might include kale for all I know) you start to question your own mental catalogue of recipes.

For one thing, the only recipe I know off the top of my head is for whipped cream and I might possibly be able to pull off a meringue.  It dawns on me that I could never survive in the wilderness without an electric mixer and vanilla extract.

But my brother Dave could.  Because through countless trial and error experiments, he has perfected the ultimate portable energy bar.  Not only does it contain delicious nuts and dried fruit, it is chewy without falling apart, and moist without being excessively sticky.  A major concern when mittens or formal wear is  involved.

A quick lick of binding agent

Dave and my nephew were up from Omaha for the weekend and we made a half batch after raiding my mom’s shelves.  The actual recipe/ algorithm is at the bottom of the post.

First you roughly chops the nuts you’re using (we used brazil nuts, almonds and walnuts).  Then add the seeds (pumpkin and sunflower).

Nuts-economically sourced from my mom's stash

Add rolled oats and some wheat germ or ground flax.  (We did not do this but we did have a healthy debate over the need to grind flax and the actual health benefits of wheat germ and how many tbsps is 3/8ths of a cup anyway?)

Toasting the dry ingredients.

While you toast the dry ingredients, you can cut up your dried fruit….

Here comes some Vitamin A

And make your binding agent.  In this case, honey, brown sugar and butter. You need fat to keep the bars soft when baked.

Concocting the Binding Agent-butter and honey

Once you’ve melted everything into a liquid you can add other seasoning.  We added some cocoa and chili powder.  Then you mix in the dried fruit.

Apricots, dates and raisins meet hot, gooey, cocoa liquid.

And then you mix in the dry mixture.  And try not to eat it right away.

A pot of bound-less energy.

And now to flatten it out, and bake for about 25 minutes.  Let cool.

Taming the energy.

And finally you can either eat this as one giant energy bar, (though it is harder to find a decent sized Ziploc for that size of a snack) or cut it up into pocket-size portions.  (Not suitable for bathing suit pockets-best to bury this in the sand while you swim and dig it up after.)

RECIPE HERE. It’s is a good one.

3 Comments

Filed under All Recipes, Blogs with cooking tips, Ruminations on the Edible

Woman discovers that Martha Stewart can bake

My latest discovery-hot off the press in 2005

Yes, I know, next I’ll be gushing about a great new dish called “Miso Black Cod” or enthusing about that new gadget called the “electric mixer”.  After many years of having Martha’s Stewart’s Baking Handbook in my amazon.ca cart I finally pressed “check out” and bought it.  My amazon purchases are strange in that things like this cookbook which I could have been referencing for years I feel guilty about “splurging” on but The Wild Sweets dessert book (as awesome as it is) I order without second thought though I have yet to make an Ice Wine Foam.

But-in case it’s been around so long you’ve forgotten about it–let me reintroduce you.  It’s got General Baking Tips (read a recipe all the way through–how guilty am I off not doing that–oops- I need lavender petals?), explains general baking techniques  such as how to add a drop of lemon to your caramel instead of wiping down the sides of your pot to prevent sugar crystallizing or shows pictures of the stages of whipping egg whites (there should be a wallet size pull-out of that.)

Chewy Crispy Cookie-ness.

It just has a whole whack of amazing recipes that are well-written, well explained and look gorgeous (as you would expect).  But doable.  Devil’s Food Chocolate Cake with Mint Chocolate Ganache, Potato and Onion Tarte Tatin and a zillion amazing cookies that would make most mom’s hate you at the Bake Sale.

The package arrived on a Friday.  Saturday morning at 7am Felix and I were ready to bake.  (Well, we were up so why not–plus I love baking in the early morning).  We went with the “yep, I have the ingredients” recipe.  Chewy, Oatmeal Raisin Cookies.

7:30 am. My work is done.

We ate a bunch of dough raw, we had a few incidences of small hands near a whirling mixer and much impatience as we watched them flatten in the hot oven, and a toasty sweet cookie aroma filled the kitchen.

Get thee to a cookie jarrery.

Now imagine these with an Ice Wine Foam.

2 Comments

Filed under All Recipes, Blogs with cooking tips, Cookbooks, Magazines (+recipes from), Ruminations on the Edible

Toast Post: Louis D’Or

Louis D'Or from Quebec reclines on avocado from Mexico

I first had Louis D’Or last fall.  I was smitten fast.  I wanted to move the relationship forward, make it more permanent but our fling was brief.  Louis D’Or was one hard cheese to track down.

It entered my life again this April, at the same time as Ben Mulroney who was hosting the 2011 Canadian Cheese Grand Prix. Being in cocktail attire, at an event where wedges of cheese are being flashed onto giant screens while Ben Mulroney is announcing, “and nominees in the fresh cheese category are…” is slightly like being at a Star Trek convention for cheese lovers (geeks, OK, geeks) or (as my friend pointed out) being in an excellent mockumentary.

Louis D’Or swept the night. I wondered what Louis was thinking about all the fuss around him.  Maybe, “If I win this category will Ben Mulroney’s hands touch my rind? Ok, I’ve now won two categories, this is going well, now will he touch me?   Maybe if I sweep the awards, surely he’ll glance my way.  Nothing?!  Are you serious?  There’s my maker–he’s shaking hands with my maker!  OMG, please come over here and wash my rind before I ferment myself!”

Louis D’Or in 11 words or more:  Firm, washed-rind. The producer is Fromagerie du Presbytère in Sainte-Élizabeth de Warwick, Quebec.  They also make the excellent blue cheese Bleu D’Elizabeth. Made with raw, organic cow sourced from the cheese maker’s farm.  When I first had the cheese last fall I loved its complexity and fruity, caramel and herbal notes which reminded me a bit of Comté.   I think I may have had the 9 month old version because when I tasted it at the Grand Prix it seemed further aged (further sleuthing has me thinking 18 months)–more crumble, less suppleness and though complex, perhaps a little less fruity or “fresh”.  It was still lovely but I think I prefer the younger wheel.

3 Comments

Filed under Cheese/Cheese Related, Ruminations on the Edible, Toast Posts

The Grapple: one awkward lovemaking session

For when you're not sure what size fruit you want to eat.

When you see apples encased in solid plastic, you read the label. Maybe they’re special.  Limited editions that you can store away between your Sidney Crosby rookie card and the weird eggplant that looks like Joan Rivers.

It was at the small Italian grocer near my house that I came upon the Grapple. “Looks like an apple. Tastes like a grape.”  Even at $1.50 per apple I couldn’t resist the bizarre apple freak show.  Or is a grape freak show?

Perhaps blue sky thinking shouldn’t be allowed when it comes to cross-breeding.

Maybe this was the prototype for vodka infused watermelon.  Luckily the Grapple website explains everything:

A relaxing bathing process prepares our apples for you or your kids. The apple takes on no additional sugars or calories. They are not genetically altered in any way. The apple is as healthy as ever but now has the new exciting grape flavor.

Amazingly, you may have more questions and luckily there is an FAQ page.  The first question answered  is “Is this an offshoot of the Japanese program that tried to cross a cow with a whale?”

But FYI–the Grapple just tastes, well, like an apple.   Who’s your daddy?



Leave a comment

Filed under Restaurants and Products, Ruminations on the Edible, Strange but Tasty