Toast Post: Burrata

Forget babies, storks should deliver Burrata.

Out of the way triple-cream cheese, Burrata is here.  Here for a good time, not a long time (in the wise lyrics of the Trooper song.  They used to have burrata thrown on stage during concerts.).  As much as you want your Mozzarella di Bufala to be fresh, you want your Burrata to be newborn.  You want the exterior to be delicate and tender as possible while the inside is creamy, oozy heaven.  Heaven in this case being small, elastic bits of the torn mozzarella (stracciatella) mixed with rich cream.  It should be buttery, sweet and fresh in flavour.  It should make you weep.  Just a little bit.

Makes you feel a little savage. I WANT THIS NOW!

Burrata was once upon a time made with buffalo milk but now it’s made mainly cow’s milk. Originating in Southern Italy (in Puglia) the name comes from the Italian word “burro” (butter).  You might find it wrapped in green leek-like leaves called “asphodel” and the fresher/greener the leaves, the fresher the burrata.

More importantly, I have not yet made you drool to the maximum.  Here is the burrata “fork to mouth”.  My mouth.  And I never even made it to the bread.

Crazy Good. More than Pop Tarts even.

No matter what you do, if you rip this open in the car while driving or serve it at home– please–eat it at room temperature.  Warm it in a bowl of warm water (in a plastic bag or whatever wrap it came in) if you can’t wait to get to it.  Like batteries, you can hold it under your armpit to warm it up but this is best done out of site of guests or even the general public.

Most importantly, don’t share.  That’s just a crazy idea.  Your kindergarten teacher did not know about burrata when she taught you that rule.  (Though, she was right about not eating the glue even if it was glittery and bright.)

Burrata is now available at All the Best Fine Foods every Friday (flown in from Italy) until mid-September and on offer at Obika Mozzarella Bar.

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Not to beat a dead nut bar or anything (recipe)

Dried blueberries, cherries, pineapple, macadamia nut. What more can I tempt you with??

Made my brother’s nut bars with my friend Lisa yesterday and our combo turned out awesome (yes, awesome, MACLEANS’s).  So here it is.  For the detailed directions go to my brother’s recipe HERE.  Don’t freak out, it just looks complicated and scientific.  Actually it’s just a bunch of stirring and putting a tray into the oven– but he has great tips for substituting ingredients and doing your own thing

Our combo was:

SEEDS:

1/2 cup sunflower
1/2 cup ground flax

NUTS

1 cup chopped pecan
1 cup chopped walnut
1 cup chopped macadamia nut
1 cup cashews

Fruit

1 cup dried pineapple
1 cup dried blueberry
1 cup dried cherry

Oats

1 cup rolled oat
1 cup granola

BINDING  AGENT

3/4 cup honey
1/2 cup brown sugar

1 ounce butter
1 ounce pumpkin seed butter

1 tsp salt
1 tsp real vanilla extract (scraping in a vanilla bean might be awesome.)

LES INSTRUCTIONS:

Preheat oven to 350 F.  Line a cookie tray with parchment and set aside (for final baking of bars).

Meanwhile, chop up your nuts if need be.  Chop up fruit and have it ready (only if you want smaller chunks–we did chop the pineapple but not the cherries. If you even consider chopping the blueberries you are the nut bar in this recipe.)

Put the oatmeal/granola and nuts/seeds on a couple trays (just divide any which way) and warm in the oven for 20 minutes.  Check to make sure nothing burns.  I turned down the heat to 300 F half-way through.

Melt the honey, brown sugar, butter and pumpkin seed butter plus the vanilla and salt in a large pot (must be able to hold all the ingredients).

Add the fruit and stir to coat.  Add the rest of the dry stuff (oats, nuts, seeds) still warm.  Mix to coat (it will look like there is not enough binding agent but it works perfectly.)  Pour the whole mixture onto a tray lined with parchment.

Flatten it and it should make a nice thick layer.   Bake at 350 F for 15 minutes.  We checked it at 12 but it was still a bit “gooey”.  15 minutes did the trick.

Cool and slice.   Feel awesome.

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Top Chef: Episode 9

Bunkies Connie and Andrea are getting ready to hit the GE kitchen and Connie reveals she’s never roomed with anyone before she met her husband.  Maybe that’s what is preventing her from freaking out–ballerinas only cry alone?  She says, “I’m feeling the pressure, I want to prove I can cook great food, I’m here to represent.”  She looks shaky. Maybe she’s been having nightmares of “I’m in it to win it” Andrea smothering her with a pillow.

Quick Fire

Guest Chef is Roger Mooking owner of Nyood and Kultura and host of TFN’s “Everyday Exotic”  The challenge “cook by numbers”.  How well can each chef put together a dish using a specific number of ingredients?

They draw knives and it goes down like so:  Dale 12, Dustin 8, Francois 14, Connie 10, Darryl 4, Rob 16, Andrea 6.   Salt, pepper and oil are freebies.

Darryl is slightly panicking–he may cook simply but 4 ingredients is basic.  Once he grabs a protein, starch and veg he’s only got one item left.   Does sweat count as an ingredient?

Dale of course is not fussed, “I don’t know why everyone is stressing out.”

Connie gets intense and decides to make her own pasta in 45 minutes.  Andrea goes the other route– “hard to screw up” as she says.  Hello butternut squash soup.  (seriously?)

But you know what–her plating looks gorgeous, the roasted butternut squash soup is contained a bright blue Le Creseut pot with maple, foie gras and hazelnut oil, garnished with garlic and squash chips.

Dustin’s squab also looks great as does Francois’s grilled sardines and grilled peach, though I think most of his 14 ingredients are lamely hidden in a bunch of “different” salad greens.

Chef Mooking thinks that Dale’s mussel broth might be a bit too saffrony. “Not too saffrony” Dale shoots back.  (are too! am not!)

He also is surprised that Connie would make pasta that needs resting time with only 45 minutes.  She one-ups him, “yep, especially since I used semolina.”  Translated: I can pirouette on your ass.

Rob used about 12 kinds of radish (red, black, green, mauve….) to make up his salad for his 16 ingredient dish.

FINAL JUDGEMENT:  It comes down to Connie and Andrea as stand-outs.  But Andrea takes the Quickfire with her “bold flavours and great balance–you’ve hit it out of the ball-park.”    Losing apparently causes Connie to lose all motivation in the Elimination round.  Or inspires a great need for comfort food.

Elimination

The elimination challenge this week is summed up by Thea as, “taking your personal cooking style and translating it into a recipe that any home cook can understand.”  Translation: we’ll be cooking with products supplied by our sponsor, Loblaws.

Chef Mooking tries to make it all feel more exciting by describing the challenge as “satisfying the home cook–and chef–in all of us.”  I sum it up as the home cook in me saying, “just defrost something for God’s sake” and the home chef in me  saying, “let’s order hand-rolled sushi for pick-up”.  (If you’re Chef-At-Home though you conveniently find some hand-rolled sushi in your pantry and make a stew with it.)

Each chef picks a bunch of PC products (and let me say right now that I love the PC line–my darling sparkling fruit juice) and shops at Loblaws for the rest of the ingredients.  They each have $50 to prepare samples for 35 people.  Andrea, winning the Quickfire has an unlimited budget and buys a whack of black cod (they swim in whacks actually….).

Insert a bunch of shots of the chefs talking…all very boring and repetitive and space-filler style stuff…

Connie has a wicked gleam in her eye.  “I saw puff pastry and was inspired!”  But wait for it, she’s essentially going to make pigs in a blanket–the twist being that she’s making the sausage.  One: you’ve already made sausage, Con.  Two: No one is going to make sausage at home, even the Italians only do it once a year recruiting their entire families and getting through it by drinking a tonne of home-made wine.

She then adds, “we need to cater to housewives and other people who shop at Loblaws”  (yes, us housewives always on the search for a new devilled egg or pastry-wrapped sausage recipe).   She says this as she purees foie gras and starts rolling sausage in saran wrap. Connie–are you cracking?!  Hang in their girl!!

Rob sums it up, “I don’t know why anyone would make sausage at home when they can just buy a hot dog.”

And then there is the stunned look on the shoppers faces as Connie explains that “making foie gras truffled sausage is easy–maybe an hour and half of work!”

Dale is kicking ass with his BBQ pulled pork with coleslaw on a bun.  A square of salty watermelon on the side.  He knows what he’s doing this time–this is no Milestones challenge, “BBQ has a power over people.” And he’s right.  He is also Dustin’s BFF!  Cut to Dale happily folding Dustin’s colourful socks.

Dustin, ‘I like a little flare in my socks’ and Dale, “I like standard undergarments. Black and grey.”

Are there cameras in the bathrooms too?  Is this material we’ll see next week when there’s one less chef to use up screen time?

I do enjoy the juxtaposition of this exchange back to back:  Rob (with a slight repulsion) , “Wow, people love free food.”

Darryll, “My girlfriend and I love to sample, we have a strategy so we can double up on the hand-outs.”

But to the judges:

They are in love with Dale’s BBQ sandwich.  Devour it actually.  Even a housewife could make it they conclude.

Andrea’s marinated black cod dish– the flavour is there but needs seasoning.  Underwhelmed.

Francois makes a yummy looking chicken confit in phyllo and is having a great time demo-ing how to fold the phyllo pastry to curious customers.  The judges conclude that though you can buy this type of dish frozen, Francois has elevated it by making it from scratch.

Unlike, Connie’s pigs-in-a blanket.  Judges with raised eyebrow, “just a simple foie-gras truffle sausage? uh-huh.”  And sadly it doesn’t taste any better than the frozen version.  I am getting flustered, what is happening to Connie?

Dustin redeems himself from his gnocchi flop last week with gnudi in brown butter.  Chef McEwan finally admits that Dustin’s “cute-factor” is getting to him.  In a warm, fuzzy way.

Rob kills it with his dessert, its also redemption time for him after the poo-log he served up last week.  He creates a maple-syrup custard with caramelized banana on top.  Everyone from the housewives to the judges are literally, eating it up.  Chef Mooking freaks out at its deliciousness. “Everything about this is right.”

And then there’s Darryl, where everything about his manicotti is just…wrong.  It’s simple that’s for sure but it is also amateur say the judges.  It did not elevate the food to…well..anywhere but the plastic plate it is served on.  I think the real epiphany should have been when a 20 year old college kid says, “hey, I could totally make this!”

Judges Table

Top Three:

Francois, Dale and Rob.  But it is obviously between Dale and Rob.  (I must say though, look at Francois–kind of staying middle of the pack and then slowly rising to the top over all these episodes. Things that make you go hmmmmm.)

All the judges drool over Rob’s dessert but Dale wins the prize.   And indeed there is a prize. Five thousand dollars worth of President’s Choice money (this show is better than Monopoly) which Dale says he will partly use for his son’s school.

Bottom two:

Obvious, yet kind of shocking.  Connie and Darryl.  Chef Mooking sums up Darryl’s issues with, “this show is called Top Chef, not Good Cook.”

And then everyone is a total over-the-top jerk to Connie “are you tapped out?”  “did you choke?” until she actually starts to cry.  And then cries harder for being seen crying on TV and not being a strong female role model (Then I  start to cry.)  Someone wrap her in a puff pastry blanket and give her a hug!  Andrea does.

As expected Darryl is sent to pack his knives.  “He’s still a young, young chef”  is the judges’ conclusion.   I hope next time he’s at Costco they have really super samples waiting for him!  Bye Darryl.

Next week:  the chefs prepare 3 meals, “a day in the life of Canadian Food”.  Huh?  (I think Gordon Pinsent might play the voice of the back bacon sandwich.)

Til next week.

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Gwyneth Paltrow is GOOPing on my territory

My mouth is a bit smaller than in this picture.

First the acting, then the singing, next a cookbook and now a blog post about cheese. I’m exhausted GP.  You don’t have to do everything.  Let me do the cheese- seriously.  I mean, really…what else do I have?  A small film called Salami Heaven, songs at pre-school where I keep my voice low enough to blend in with the hum of the fan and a kick-ass recipe for fudge.  But no cook book.

All I had was the cheese.  And now you had to go there.  And I had to go there to get the link to your post. It’s just unjust.  But, it is kind of a good post.  I grudgingly admit.

And I do love, love, love (love) La Fromagerie in London, and their cheese room and their soft-boiled egg for breakfast with the imported Italian coffee.  And nothing bad to say about Murray’s cheese in New York either.

The newspaper is for when you eat breakfast alone-- which is the best way to dine in the early morning.

Just one thing, I resent the “cheese is kind of unhealthy” disclaimer off the top.  At its best, made with care and with pristine milk I would consider it pretty darn healthy.  And btw, so does Patricia Michelson, owner of La Fromagerie.  A quote from her first book, The Cheese Room (personally autographed–(ha GP!)– to my husband… but details..),

“Who would have thought a book on cheese would contain a beauty tip? Not such a daft idea as we should all know about the health enhancing qualities of cheese–good for teeth and bones as well as the blessed dietary attributes of Parmigiano Reggiano for young children, women in pregnancy, the elderly and sporty types.”

She’s talking about the fact that Italian scientists have studied the benefits of Parmigiano-Reggiano for many years. It is easy to digest for children (and people with gastrointestinal problems) as the long ageing process slowly breaks down the milk proteins. It has high levels of calcium and phosphorus making it very good for people suffering from osteoporosis.  Plus for athlete’s it can provide the protein they might get from meat, but is lower in cholesterol and generally one of the lower-fat cheeses.

BTW, Patricia’s books are wonderful and fun to read, not only if you love cheese but if you enjoy food.  And if you’re in London, you must absolutely head to her store.  Even more important than a visit to Top Shop,  afterall,  you can dress in cheese, but you can’t eat clothes.

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Top Chef Canada: Episode 8

Birds chirp. Morning sun peeks through a window.  Darryl disses Andrea. “The consensus in the group is that Andrea is not a team player.  Even the servers at Milestones were  “like, what’s wrong with that girl?””

Well, first of all, the servers at Milestones are probably ditching their Psyche 101 class to make a shitload of tips on a drunken 5:30 business crowd so they probably have no idea what a chef does.  Secondly, if they’re going to be “like” p.o’d at Andrea, maybe they address her properly as in, “why is that chef such a bitch?”

Secondly, Andrea has been saying she’s “in it to win it” from Day 1, so no big surprise, though I guess we need a new outsider now that Chris and Jamie have been zapped.

Anyway, Andrea is now the bad-ass though she could care less, “I came here for myself, so whatever.”  See! Balls the size of watermelons.

Quickfire Challenge

Mark McEwan is back and I think he got highlights.  Looking very Summer 2011.  He tells the teams that from now on working together is “vital” and indeed, teamwork is the theme of this episode.  There will be no more immunity granted.

(See how the producers are setting this up? Teamwork good.  Andrea bad.  Tension building. Watch and learn reality show hopefuls.)

For todays’ challenge the chefs are divided into two groups.  Francois and Rob pull the knives that decree them team captain. Flashback to elementary school, the captains get to pick their team.  (its OK, I’m fine about not being any good at volleyball or basketball and always picked last, even for hurdles).

Francois’s first choice is Dale.  Rob’s first choice is Dustin.   (Hey–if you take Dale–and turn that frown upside down–you get Dustin!)

Francois then chooses Connie.  Rob looks pissed but settles for Todd.  Francois takes Darryl and Andrea is stuck onto Rob’s team.

Andrea, “I don’t care, I’ll play the underdog, but I’m sure they know I’m a force to be reckoned with.”  (unspoken: bunch of pussies.)

Each team has 40 minutes to make a dish.  All the chefs will be blindfolded.  One chef starts the dish and after 10 minutes the next chef steps in until all four have had a turn.  Like those games where one person starts drawing the feet and the next person draws the torso….hey, is this Top Chef: Summer Camp?

GOES DOWN LIKE SO:

First 10 min: Andrea and Darryl start for their teams:   Andrea grabs scallops and starts a white asparagus puree.  Daryll grabs snapper and begins to clean it.

Second 10 min:  Rob sees scallops. He sees the puree.  Goes for bacon.  Dale sees that Darryl started a reduction for butter sauce so works on that and braises some radishes and fennel.

Third 10 min: Connie says the “plate needs some colour”  so she makes a “green oil.”  YUM, green oil.  Todd, “I can’t figure out what’s happening”  just makes a (traditional Newfoundland I presume) potato cake.

Last 10 minutes: Dustin tastes everything to see where stuff is at, as does Francois.  They plate everything and Francois’s hands are shaking as he adds the final touches.

Red Team (Rob Captain) creates a pancetta-wrapped scallop plate with potato rosti, white asparagus sauce and braised leek.

Blue Team (Francois Captain) creates a pan-seared snapper with butter sauce,  braised radish and fennel and sea asparagus salad.

Chef McEwan makes a joke! “Does anyone know what this is?” he asks.  He is getting lighthearted– perhaps seeing the end in sight.

Both teams have done well– but Rob (Red Team) is finally vindicated winning his first Quickfire, or as he says so eloquently, “I finally won a quickfire for fucks’s sake”

The winning team gets to choose their serving area in the Restaurant War Challenge.

Elimination

The restaurant  war takes place at McEwan’s own Bymark.  One team will serve in the dining room and one on the patio.  Rob’s Red Team, now known as “To New” (a bad play on the Toronto Nfld connection) is allowed to pick since they won elimination.  They choose patio.

Francois’ team, now called By Bleu (another bad play on words: Bymark+ blue aprons) gets the dining room.

The first challenge is figuring out who the sucker’s going to be that runs front of house.  Typical of anyone in the kitchen everyone seems to agree with Francois that, “front of house can seriously screw back of house.”  And the chef’s still have to create a dish even if they are not in the kitchen.

Finally Andrea agrees to take one for the Red team. “I’m always in the dining room at my restaurant….” Unspoken: reaming out my staff.

On the blue team Darryl also steps down and out of his whites.  Dale, who has fully taken charge, graciously comments that, “Darryl is going to fuck up, he doesn’t know fine dining.”  My favourite excuse for not doing front-of-house is Francois, “I won’t understand the English people’s jokes so I can’t do it”.  But of course.

Team Rob’s concept: contemporary Canadian fine-dining with a casual feel.

Team Francois:  Dale asks and then answers his own questions.  ‘What’s our concept?” beat. “Modern European?  Fine fine dining. Settled.”

Connie is not happy, she is not on board with the “fine-fine” dining not having done it in years.  This somehow causes her to forget her baby potatoes during prep and she has to run off in a van to find them.  Call me crazy but did they clear all food out of the Bymark kitchen?  Surely, there is a potato or two rolling around in there?  (ohh, wait, maybe they were already pickled.)

Service:

Team To New:

The judging team arrives with Chef David Adjey in tow as Chef Judge (The Opener).  Thea Andrews looks amazing in her silver dress. There is some painfully awkward small talk between Chef McEwan and Andrea  before service.

The judges sit down on the patio first to partake in the meal from To New (Rob, Dustin, Todd and Andrea). Generally things go from Ok to worse. A couple of the dishes are deemed to have “hotel-itis” by McEwan (like Andrea’s asparagus salad and the main lamb course) meaning, “looks great, tastes like nothing.”

Todd’s terrine is a bit of a disaster–it’s falling apart and the chutney is way too spicy.  The judges like Dustin’s Halibut but his gnocchi is deemed more akin to mashed potatoes. Dessert crescendo in banal badness.  Rob’s mousse really does look like poop on a plate and Todd’s custard looked like a slap-dash affair.  Winning dish of the service was Andrea’s Octopus.

Team By Bleu:

Darryl looks quite adorable and also like a duck out of water all spiffed up.  He manages to get his hands on Chef McEwan’s crotch when he decides to put all the napkins on the judges laps, something “he’d seen done in fine dining”.  All the judges try hard not crack up.

By Bleu (Francois, Connie, Darryl and Dale) does much better with their dinner despite a near fist-fight (no helmets) between Dale and Darryl when Dale tries to “un-simplify” Darryl’s duck dish and later when Daryll doesn’t get Dale’s strawberry souffles off the pass and out to the guests before they start to deflate.

Yet the food that gets out the judges table is turning out well.  Darryl’s duck is called, “perfect, just the right subtle smoke and degree of doneness” by Chef McEwan. Francois’s lamb and eggplant is “spectacular”. Connie is flumoxed that her tuna dish is being described as “canned tuna” by the diners but in the end her semi-freddo dessert plate and Dale’s souffle are tagged as “big league desserts”.  In fact, Chef McEwan says he couldn’t have made a better souffle himself.

Judges Table

Team By Bleu is called in a declared the clear winners with Dale’s souffle taking top prize.

Which leaves Team To New as the losers.  Andre is safe as her Octopus dish came out on top despite her being chosen last for the team. Which leaves Dustin, Rob and Todd.  Cut to commercial.

It must be Todd.  It has to be Todd I am thinking.  And yes, Todd is declared out of his league and asked to pack his bags.  He leaves us with his usual Todd-isms that have endeared him all this way, “I ran out of bullets.  I tried something outside my comfort zone and it didn’t work.  Going back home to my wife, daughter, buddies and back deck.  It’s going to be great.”   Big sigh.

Next week the Chefs create food for President’s Choice.  Bigger sigh.

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You crazy Czechs!

Imagine peeling back the fingernail.

Unwanted company?  No problem.  Use your basic Linzer Cookie Dough and bake up some bloody finger pastry.

This was passed down to my mom through the Czech email chain.  It’s for the “blushing bride”.

See how practical the East Europeans are?  Scare away your guests but do it using a good homemade pastry.  And good jam–mainly fruit.  You don’t want to look like a bad hostess for God’s sake. And you’re not going to let these perfectly good cookies go to waste.  They’ll be great for dipping in coffee. Not like those rock-hard biscotti things the Italians make.

And while we’re on the subject of Czech humour (were we?)…..please forgive this.  (and don’t think there’s not a “Will you take a Czech?” panel too.)

Why isn't it in Czech?

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Breaking free of the 100 mile diet and feeling fine

My fleeting one-month stand, Alphonso

Alphonso flew in from India.  I felt I had to see him.  And peel him. And cut him up. And eat him and be sticky. Because he’s only here for a brief time (season is April-May), so who am I to hum and haw about his homeland being slightly out of the 100-mile loop of India.

No, you can’t get Alphonsos at the local market (and yes, I love to shop at the local market–yay corn, yay carrots, yay elk meat) but deliciousness is deliciousness. ( I know–one can say that about veal and foie gras and Cheetos too) but FOCUS people.  This is an experience that is truly unique and yes, comes from another country.  But these are not foreign potatoes than we can grow in our own backyard.

Morning Mango--and I'm usually anti-fruit with breakfast.

The colour of the Alphonso is more intense then the orange of a pumpkin shell.  The fleshy interior is soft, yielding and not at all stringy…and the flavour…it’s  Super Duper Duper Mango–rich, sweet and with a slight perfumed aroma.

My box of Alphonsos came by way of Kohinoor Foods at Gerrard and Ashdale.  Our friend Ron got the Tweet alert.  Marilyn, his wife, called the store and was told the shipment had arrived the previous evening.  She kindly picked us up a box.  They will not be available as long as usual because the crop was affected by colder than usual weather this past winter.

So go to Little India and talk to the shopkeepers and have them pull out a special box of these mangoes from behind the counter  (with a knowing look in their eye).  And squeeze them a bit and pay the $25 for one box, and feel happy as you see the shipping sticker that says, “Air India”.

And go home dreaming about the best mango lassi you’ve ever had in your life, just a blender whrrrrrr  away.  Made with local yogurt of course.  Duhhh….

Darling, save the last mango pit for me....

 

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Dave’s Nutbar Recipe (more thorough than a prostrate exam)

Top Secret Ratios

These Nut Bars make a great energy boost after an exhaustively uplifting episode of Glee or before an emotionally draining episode of Grey’s Anatomy.

In case you can’t quite follow the arrows and my brother’s handwriting, here’s how we made the super-tatsy, energy-supplying, don’t die hungry if stranded in the forest (or a big mall) nut bars.

The recipe is below but anything in RED is my brother’s advice from his many nutbar tests.  My sister-in-law read his comments and thinks she is married to Alton Brown.  I read his comments and wondered how he does anything else aside from making nut bars.

Ratio for solid ingredients:

(assuming 1 cup=1 part in this case to work with binding agent measurements)

1 part Seeds (pumpkin, sunflower, flax ect)

Sesame seeds are great. Use ground flax, unprocessed flax just passes though your system with little benefit.  Ground flax is a great way to add fiber to the bars.  I think in the batch we used we crushed a bunch of bran cereal as a substitute.  If you like seeds, you can also replace some of the nuts with seeds.

2 parts Oats/granola (half should be rolled oats)

Any dry complex carbohydrate can be used here. No need for sugar so you can go all oats. For a nuttier bar, use only rolled oats. They have a lower GI.   (Some may not like the texture/taste. Personally this is a good thing because it leave more bars for me to eat.)

 In a bind, you can go ghetto and add puffed rice. There is enough quick energy in the sugars of the binding agent, so aim for carbs with a LOW glycemic index. (http://www.glycemicindex.com/)

3 parts Dried fruit (roughly chopped cherries, apricots, raisins, prunes, blueberries ect)

Stay away from any fibrous fruit. No dried apple, peach, mango, etc… I wasn’t so fond of the  prunes either. Pineapple, apricot and dried cherries are the best. no need to chop the cherries.  Better not to actually.

Oh, FINELY chopped candied ginger gives the bars a nice aromatic flavour.  Do not use more than 1/2 cup… 1/4 cup is plenty.

4 parts Nuts (roughly chopped almonds, hazelnuts, walnuts, pecans, macadamia nuts, brazil nuts ect)

If you hate chopping, either buy pre-chopped nuts (they are cheaper) or use some combination of walnuts and cashews. In the later case, after you measure out all the nuts, you can just crush them by hand in a large bowl… make sure to do this before you add the oats or crushing them by hand will be harder/more messy.

Binding Agent

3/4 cup honey  (do not substitute–Dave has tried and for some reason honey is key)

Honey is 1.5% sucrose, 7% maltose and the remainder nearly equal parts of fructose and dextrose with a little bit of H2thrown in. You could probably use some combinations of other liquid sugars that works out to the same ratios.  My guess is that corn syrup would work here. Its about 50/50 fructose/glucose IIR.

1/2 cup brown sugar (can try molasses or corn syrup)

Any sucrose can be used… maple syrup is nice, but you will need to bake the final product a little longer, or boil it off by simmering the binding agent for a little longer.

2 ounces fat (butter or oil)  This is necessary to keep the bars chewy and not hard.

It’s not important what type of fats you use, if you prefer unsaturated fats you can use olive oil, sesame oil, etc.  I favour Macadamian nut butter. The little jar I bought had the  almost the same grams of fat per volume as butter.  It give the bars a really nice creamy taste.  It is expensive though. As a rule of thumb, just keep the fats equal to those found in 2oz of butter. DO NOT USE PEANUT BUTTER. It will ruin the bar… tried several times. You need too much of it to give you the fats you need and all that peanut butter turns the bars into dense bricks.  If you want a peanut taste, add crushed peanuts!

vanilla (to taste)

salt (to taste–careful if you’ve used salted nuts))

**you can add other spices, cocoa powder or flavouring in here too–maybe anise extract?

Directions:

1. Combine nuts, oats and seeds and warm in oven at 350 F for 15 minutes.

Be careful not to toast them too much. They will get another 20 minute bath of heat soon. The point here is to just warm them up so they will not shock the binder into solidifying.  The warm nuts make it easy to combine evenly with the binder.

2. In a large pot combine the binding agent ingredients and melt til smooth.

3. Add in the dried fruit mix and then add in the other dry ingredients-mix till all combined and coated.

Be careful how long you leave the fruit in the simmering binder before the nuts are added. They will quickly start to absorb the binder and leave less to hold the bars together.  I guess you could use this to your advantage if you have some fluid to remove like the case where you used maple syrup instead of crystallized sucrose.

4. Line a cookie sheet with parchment.  Flatten the mixture onto the parchment.

5. Bake at 350 F for 20 minutes.  (you want the bars to lose some moisture and become solid, but not too crunchy so check them at the 12-15 minute mark).

The only thing you can check here is whether or not the bars are burning (getting too dark). The sugars at this temperature will make the flattened goo seem softer than it will be when everything cools. Stick with 15-20 minutes for your first batch. Every combination of ingredients, even if you keep to the 4-3-2-1 ratio will require a slightly different bake time. This is where practice makes perfect. The other bake time factor is the thickness of the bars.  The thicker they are, the harder it is for the moisture in the center to escape. When experimenting with your bars, try different sizes of cookie sheets that allow you to play with the thickness.  Erin likes gooier bars than I do, so you could even make half a sheet a bit thicker for the goo lovers and thin out the other side for a harder (and cleaner) bar.

Cool and divide.

Winter is dangerous… the bars cool fast and cold bars get brittle.  It’s best to cut them slightly over room temp.  If you cool them in the fridge or freezer and forget about them, it’s better to let them warm up before cutting.

Back to Sue:

I’m now excited and terrified to make these on my own.  Because if I screw these up after the minute instructions supplied by Dave, I will run into the woods wearing only nylons and a bandana and chew on tree bark until I pass out from sobbing.

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Busting (out) Some Sicilian Balls

Can I be this good? We shall see.

It wasn’t until I had the addictive arancine at Enoteca Sociale that I decided to try and make them myself. They were so delicious that I could not bear to be without immediate access in my own home.  When I say immediate I mean after you’ve made the rice and the ragu for the filling and dredged them and deep fried them.  But after that–they’re ready in a jiff!  But I’m getting ahead of myself.

The arancine would be my first foray into deep-frying (in my own kitchen). My bible would be The Saveur ‘Sicily” issue (March 2011), currently sitting on the back-burner of my desk taunting me with amazing recipes for local Sicilian dishes (recipe here).

I made the ragu in advance.  Not so much an indication of proper planning and forethought–more a result of “Oh crap– that beef has been sitting in the fridge forever”  Which is why the pictures below, taken at 11pm at night under tungsten lights are a bit….yellow.   I started out with a finely chopped mirepoix (celery, onion, carrot) which I sautéed until soft.

You then add in ground beef and ground pork and cook until browned.  Finally you add fresh, strained tomato sauce and some tomato paste and simmer until it thickens (30 minutes-ish).

Finally, let the sauce cool and put it in the fridge.  Meanwhile you make your rice.  In my case, you make the sauce and put it in the fridge and make the rice 2 days later. (as you can see, it might just be faster to cross town and go to Enoteca Sociale for my arancine fix).  But less an adventure.

Love this machine. Less incidence of runny mascara. (and mascara is KEY to a good arancine.)

For the rice you begin with a minced, small red onion and sautéed over medium til softened. The you add 1 1/2 cup Arborio rice.

Arborio Rice- pearly white, short-grained rice used for risotto

Once you stir in the rice and coat with the oil and onion, you add the key ingredient “1/4 tsp crushed saffron“.  Well, it did not even occur to me I did not have saffron.  Until I could not find it–did I hastily purge it one day in with “clean out the pantry” conviction?  Or was it just stuck somewhere in a large crack in the back of my very deep, 1960s cupboards which would require removing about 15 bottle of various oils and vinegars to even begin a search.  What to do!?  So much for mise-en-place.

I had no choice, I just added some turmeric for colour at least.  (Shhh, don’t tell anyone in Sicily).  Then I added 1 1/2 cups water, brought it up to a boil and removed it from the heat.  You need to let it sit for 20 minutes.

In case your imagination can't handle a covered pot with arborio rice inside.

I grated 2 tbsp of parmesan while I waited and stirred that into the rice with some salt and pepper.

Once everything is combined you spread the rice on a tray and let it cool.

Don’t you (kind of) want to press your face into this?

Meanwhile you can make your batter by whisking together 1/4 cup flour, 2 eggs and 1/2 cup water. Set up a separate bowl for the bread crumbs.

At this point, I am thinking, this is so much fun.

Assembly:  You take a hearty tbsp of the rice in your hand a flatten it into a disc. Then make a bit of a well in the centre and then put in about 1 tbsp of your cooled ragu.

Using your fingers you bring the edges of the rice around the filling to gently enclose the ragu.  Finally you roll the ball around in your hand to seal it and to slightly compact the mixture. The recipe makes 2 dozen arancine.

It works. Now to make 23 more.

It took a bit of practise to figure out how much ragu was too much, and to seal it without the ragu showing through.  Donna, our babysitter, had actually stayed to watch me finish and I think after one ragu ball and 23 more to go she was regretting her enthusiasm.  “I’d just buy them frozen” she said.  (Have I mentioned how much more efficient Donna is than me?)

Finally, they were done.  I actually made 22, so I think I sized them fairly well.

Now to dredge in the batter and coat in the bread crumbs.

Pre-dredge.

I started heating up the Canola oil in my Dutch Oven bringing it up to 360 F.

Battered and ready for service. Enoteca here I come!

I fried the arancine in batches of four.

Frying arancine feels rustic, unlike frying mozzarella which feels like a hangover.

Recipe says to pop them into the hot oil for about 3 minutes until the exterior is golden.  I timed it and 3 minutes seemed about right.  Finally my 22 balls of arancine are down and cooling on paper towels.

Oh boy--I wish there was more than two adults and a toddler to eat 22 of these.

And voila! (wait, that’s French) ummm, Tah-Dah!  Is that universal?  My Sicilian balls were a success.  I will make these again.  Maybe in advance and then just deep fry them at the last minute for an appetizer or a patio snack if you were entertaining.

Suck it Enoteca Sociale.

Anything I would do differently?  Well, not eat five in a row.  Remember the saffron.  Also, the rice seemed like it could have been cooked a little more though I followed the recipe and it had absorbed all the water.   (Ok, fine, don’t suck it Enoteca Sociale–you’re still better than me.  For now.)   Maybe I need to be better aquainted with the brand of arborio rice I had.  Overall though–I love Sicily!  Especially if a Sicilian nona wants to make these for me.  Maybe an ad for Craigslist.

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Top Chef: Episode 7

Andrea is ready for battle in Eps 7, “I’m better than the shit I’m putting out.”  You’re no chopped horse tartar Andrea–and don’t let any Facebook Page tell you different.

Quickfire Challenge

Welcome Chef Michael Smith–at first glance I think “wow-he’s insanely tall” and as usual I’m irritated by his hairstyle.  I’m sorry fans but Chef Smith grates on my nerves. No, we’ve never met–I’ve constructed this conflict through my personal Food Network viewing. I just find him a bit “know it all goody two-shoes guy-always cookin’ up a stew”.  Also, no one’s friggin’ pantry has that many clean glass jars you Chef at Home (the show should be called Chef On Set).  But I digress.

There is a not-so-funny trick pulled during the Quickfire where each chef picks a closed pot with a secret ingredient inside.  Except all the pots contain All Bran.  We watch all the chefs unveil this same ingredient  over and over and still the joke never really becomes funny. (Flogging a dead Product Placement it’s known as in the biz.)

Each Chef is to be unique and innovative with their All Bran.  They have 30 minutes.

Todd wants to stay true to Newfoundland (I love Todd but honestly–branch out to PEI or somethin’) and pulls out some salt cod from the sleeve where he has hidden a season’s worth of  East Coast fish and seafood.

Darryl as always is keeping it simple (which would actually be just adding milk, but he goes for panko/bran encrusted shrimp) and Francois has a crazy idea to make All Bran gnocchi which turn out, in his own words, “tough and chewy” but an excellent source of fibre.

Rob burns his Southern Fried Chicken and Patrick says he has so many ideas he can’ stop them.  Does he know we’re cooking with All Bran?

For the first time that I can recall, the guest Chef stops and comments on every dish instead of the usual neutral swallow and “Thank you Chef”.   Chef M.S wags his finger and tsk tsks his ways through everyone’s plate.  (I warned you I had issues…)  For the first time I see Dustin drop his smile when Chef-It -All says, “and these drips on the plate–are they also All Bran?”

He lectures Rob about his burnt wings, “this is Top Chef Canada Rob!”.  Unfortunately Chef-It-All forgot his metre stick and dunce caps in the pantry back home.

Finally, in a show of East Coast solidarity, Todd’s salt cod brandade wins the day, “it’s beautiful–crunchy, sweet and soft”.   Todd says he is humbled.  (I love Todd- I want to be invited to dinner at his house.  I want Todd and Connie to open a restaurant.  I want All Bran!  Wait– where did that come from?)

Elimination

Sadly, Chef-It-All is not eliminated.  He is still with us.  And so is Milestones.  The Chefs will each be asked to create a course in a three-course romantic anniversary meal for a full house of couples at Milestones. The winning dishes will be featured on the Milestone’s “Top Chef” menu. All must comply with the Milestone’s agenda of “familiar food with a twist”.   Like pizza-in the shape of a heart?   Anything with pesto in the shape of a heart?  Wait–molten chocolate cake…in the shape of a heart??  (I could totally win this.)

The chefs  have $225 and twenty minutes to shop.  Most of the chefs are running around like crazy, Connie’s crazy is showcased when talking to the camera almost deadpan admitting ,”it’s really not much time” while she laconically orders her meat at the butcher counter.

We don’t see Connie a lot on camera.  I think its because she doesn’t say a lot of dumb-ass things. Like when Dale informs us that A. he will not lower himself to cooking for a chain restaurant and B. his Pavlova will “not only be a sensual dessert–but maybe even sexual.”  (Ummm, OK.  He does include a cherry on the plate…I’ll leave that to your Pavlovic interpretation.)

Connie is worried she is going too rustic–she’s making pork croquettes and a spicy aïoli–her grandmother’s recipe.  For Milestones, she seems pretty savvy with the deep-fried idea.

So competing against each other are:

Appetizers: Connie, Andrea and Todd.

Main:Francois, Patrick and Rob

Dessert: Dale, Dustin and Daryll

The Milestone’s couples and judges are digging (and digging into) Connie’s croquettes. Andrea’s ravioli somehow gets served cold and the goat cheese is discoloured by the black garlic which no one can taste.

For mains, Francois comes out a winner with his roasted sablefish with seaweed gnocchi in a mushroom and tamarind jus.   As pumped as Jeff the Milestone’s guy is about its “taste profile” I really cannot believe that the Milestones crowd is going to be keen on “seaweed gnocchi”.  (If they are –well, I’ll eat my All Bran Gnocchi paper weights!)

Patrick makes a disastrous explosion of his pork tenderloin dish where the pork is way undercooked and he’s thrown in every spice he can think of.  For him it’s an explosion of love but for judge Shereen Arazm his whole style “is like fusion confusion.”

Desserts all succeed with the crowd but Dustin’s Strawberry shortcake with a lemon curd twist and flower petals has an leg up.  Adorably, it’s his girlfriend’s recipe (who is also his pastry chef).

In an interesting preview of next week’s “Restaurant Wars” theme we see the chefs (even Connie) freaking out during service when chits are moved, ingredients go missing and customers walk in late after all the mise-en-place has been packed up.  Andrea yells the most though.  She explains that yelling shows that she has balls, not that she’s a bitch.  I’m going to try that excuse at the park on my next play date.

Judges’s Table

The top three:

Connie for apps, Francois for Mains and Dustin for Dessert.

In the end Dustin’s Strawberry shortcake fits Milestone’s menu like a glove.  And I might actually head to Milestone’s for my anniversary–it looks pretty damn good.

The bottom three:

Andrea (cold ravioli with grey filling), “good idea but bad execution.  Not a sharing dish.”

Dale (deconstructed sexual Pavlova) basically gets his wrist slapped for ignoring the challenge.  He’s told he has to learn to work within the confines of the exercise.  If the world wants Jello-on-a-Cloud Dale…

Patrick gets reamed out for the mess he made of his presentation. He defends himself by saying, “my hands are too big so my dish was messy.”   Poor bear.

Not surprisingly, Patrick is sent packing.  The rest of the group is saddened and they toast “the bear”.  Andrea looks like she might cry, though let’s face it, it’s probably tears of relief. His raw pork saved her grainy ravioli ass.

All the obvious eliminations have happened.  Even Francois has stepped up his game.  So maybe the real competition will start next week…..see you for Restaurant Wars.

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