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Chantecler: Kitchen Party coming to Brock and Queen

Chantecler partners Jonathan Poon and Jacob Wharton-Shukster outside the new digs

Happy 2012!  Time to discover a new place to get fed in Toronto.  Racing to open in February, Chantecler can only be called a labour of love (with emphasis on the labour part).  Chef Jonathan Poon and partner Jacob Wharton-Shukster (who will run front of house) spend every moment –between full-time jobs– doing renos on their new place. When Jonathan  brings me by for a sneak peek Jacob is slightly sawdusty and torn between a dozen stain options for the long bar which will run down one side of the room.

Chantecler in the works

Chantecler in the works (Dec 2011)

This 26 seat modern bistro will have small tables opposite the bar seating and tables in the front window that can accomodate a larger group (up to 8).  Cozy with high ceilings, the 450 ft dining room is attached to a dream 250 ft prep kitchen in the back.

Moffat Stoves: A nod to the classics at Chantecler

Your first nod of appreciation will come when seeing the stove tops.  Poon and crew will be cooking not on gas burners but on electric.  Vintage electric.  Jonathan shows me where the two stoves will go.  A 1952 cream-coloured Moffat stove will be in the back kitchen and the other, a butter-yellow 1935 model will be used during service in the restaurant. When I say “in the restaurant” yes,  I mean the concept is open kitchen but even more kitchen party.  The prep area in the back will be visible but if you’re sitting at the bar you might be beside the pass, privvy to dishes being plated or sipping wine while the cook at garde manger is dressing a salad inches from your elbow.  Similar experiences can be found in the city but in this intimate space the idea is that the chef can step into the role of attentive host, even saucing your plate tableside.

Chantecler: A French Canadian Heritage Chicken

The name Chantecler comes from a heritage chicken breed from Quebec.   Most obvious is the tie in to Canada and local ingredients.  But the two partners also wanted a name that had a classic feel and longevity.  A restaurant whose cooking would be creative and dynamic enough to impress the critics and foodies while also implying a warmth of service, good food and a sense of comraderie.

As for the menu– Jacob and JP have termed their food Progressive Canadian Cuisine.   “Inspired by global influence, using modern techniques and  local ingredients,” says Jonathan– following with, “so pretty much whatever I want.”  As for the booze?  “We’re focusing on natural wines and sourcing from small scale producers local and abroad. We’ll also be doing some good old fashion cocktails.”

I met Jonathan while working in the kitchen at Colborne Lane.  It was the first place I worked in Toronto after returning from cooking school in London.  In my first week JP simply asked if I could prepare a large bowl of tomato concassé to help with his prep.  I was so paranoid of the perfection of every small cube I culled any rejects enthusiastically with the resulting concassé  having to be redone as there was barely enough flesh left to rebuild one full tomato.  Often we would ride the subway home together after service and he would tell me about his early love of cooking and baking (he’s equally talented at both).  At 16 he was preparing bread and baked goods out of his home (in the wee hours) and selling it fresh-baked to local bakeries- 170 pieces a day . (Meanwhile  I once spent a satisfying evening as a teenager putting chocolate icing on my face. I later learned to make cake.)

Jonathan Poon in the kitchen on Boxing Day at the Monday Night Dinner Series. (Courtesy of photographer: Nick Merzetti)

JP has gone on to cook in many kitchens in the city such as C5, Delux and is currently at Woodlot.  In between 15 hour shifts he and  Jacob (who currently works as a server at Origin) started organizing The Monday Night Dinner series, a bi-weekly event which gives upcoming new chefs a chance to get creative and serve their own menu.  Organizing the Monday Night Dinners is no easy task–Poon’s  found himself skinning rabbits at 2 am after a regular shift at Woodlot or riding down the street on a bike with 17 ducks on his back. (Take that Cirque de Soleil craft service).

1320 Queen Street West (at Brock)

Currently you’ll only be able to recognize Chantecler by the distinctive artwork covering the front window.  It’s courtesy of Jonathan and Jacob’s friend Allister Lee who’ll also be doing the sign design (in between helping with the reno.)  When Chantecler opens reservations will be taken for about half the space, but for myself, I’m going to offer to sand some drywall and see if it gets me onto the VIP list.

You can follow Chantecler’s progress on twitter @chanteclerto

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Thumbprint Cookie Throwdown: Bacon Jam vs Bacon Marmalade

PC Bacon Marmalade in the left corner and Skillet Bacon Jam in the right.

I’ve been meaning to do a tête-à-tête with my two bacon spreads for a while so why not kill two birds with one stone?

I was making thumbprint cookies for the holidays and they have convenient little holes for filling.   I hoped bacon might infuse some sweet/savoury magic into my cookie tins.  Plus bacon in dessert is so overdone already, what better time than Christmas to overdo it?

The President’s Choice Bacon Marmalade, though a knock-off of the Skillet Bacon Jam, is actually quite different.  It’s made with caramelized onion and balsamic vinegar and is much sweeter than the Skillet Spread.  Great with an aged cheddar on a cracker or in grilled cheese, it has a more typical marmalade consistency with spice and orange peel.  The bacon element adds savour but as an afterthought.

Skillet Bacon Jam and PC Bacon Marmalade

As you can see there is a clear winner in the looks department.  The bacon jam is a BEFORE picture and the marmalade is the AFTER (once the jam has shaved, flossed and waxed).

Skillet bacon jam is meaty, smoky, pulled pork like in consistency.  It has bacon flavour full force.  It’s “smack me so I stop eating this” kind of good. Smoked bacon is the first ingredient in the Skillet product and sugar is the first ingredient in the PC marmalade.  Depends how much jam you want in your bacon jam.

Back to the cookies.  I am happy to report that all cookies turned out pretty tasty.  The sweet/sour character of the Bacon Marmalade’s balsamic vinegar and caramelized onion base was very complimentary to the buttery cookie.

Quite lovely, no?

But it was the Bacon Jam thumbprints that surprised me.  Because to be perfectly honest, I had a hard time taking a bite.  It’s the image problem again.  You’d rather get a piece of coal in your stocking than have this show up at your door.  It’s like The Cat Came Back in a cookie.

Now I'm thinking hide the bacon jam INSIDE the cookie.

They look furry, to put it kindly.  But they tasted fantastic.  The sweet, the salty–it was a darn good combo.  But you’d have to serve it to people at night, with no lights on.  No candles.  Not even Scentsy.  But, on the bright side you could all be comfortably naked.  And blissed out on bacon.

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Screw the Sugar Cookies: Christmas Macaroon Fix in the East End

What could make a better hostess gift? Nothing, don't even try thinking about it.

If Toronto foodies can go west West in search of a good bite, I will traverse the east East.

It was the first “snowfall” (windy wet snowstorm) of the season last week when I set out.  I was looking for a new pastry shop called J’Adore Cakes on the Danforth.  In my hood.  But kind of further east than the east I called home.  I found myself trudging sans hat, with flimsy scarf wrapped around my ears and mascara smudges on my cheeks towards a little window promising shelter and sugar near Victoria Park/Danforth.

The windows of J’Adore Cakes were steamed up from the warmth of the ovens which had been going all morning and I could just make out the hazy shape of a macaroon tree in the window.

Macaroon tree if you've never seen one in the wild.

Once inside I was greeted by owner and pastry chef  Isabelle Loiacono and her very charming mom, who was helping at the counter.  The store is teeny–J’Adore’s first retail outlet.  Cute, charming, cozy are all words that apply.  For lunch, dessert or esperesso it’s a “pop-in” kind of place without even a table to sit down (one little table would be nice!).  But the individual desserts looked artful and mouth-watering while the macaroons were as they should be: crunchy and tender on the outside and chewy, soft in the middle.

They also make beautiful cakes which you can order with a phone call or by visiting the J’Adore website.

I stole the picture below off the site and there are many more examples  (I also stole the Macaroon Tower and Holiday Macaroon photos–full disclosure)

Let me leave you with a list of a few of the macaroon flavours J’Adore features:

There were more, I ate them. Why I should not do my own photo shoots.

 In random order: Lavender Maple, Coconut Dulce, Cashew Honey, Red Velvet, Praline Crunch, Sea Salt Caramel, and Pistachio Rosewater.

Isabelle has been featured on the Marilyn Dennis Show, in Wedding Bells magazine and competed on The Food Network Challenge.

She also grills a mean ham and swiss baguette to comfort you when your eyelashes have frozen to your face.

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Centre Ice is now the Tuna Aisle (but the cheese wall makes you forgot your woes)

The line-ups were back outside Maple Leaf Gardens yesterday.  I arrived at 7:15am for the Loblaws grand opening, shocked to be greeted by a cue of people winding from Church Street back towards Yonge.  Loblaws employees were handing out muffins and tea and media were huddled outside the entrance waiting to witness the reveal of what one photographer referred to as an “airport-size” grocery store.

For nostalgia’s sake, here is centre ice (check out the funky orange grocery carts, might help the sadness melt away).  At least canned tuna is puck sized.

I don’t know if it’s cool or uncool to like this store.  But, I liked it.  I would like shopping here–it’s a grocery store, has all the same products you expect (from detergent to Cambpell’s soup) but caters to foodies without the price tag of Whole Foods.  So, certain products are more luxurious…..look at the dried mushrooms on offer (the fresh mushrooms were also amazing).

Realistically many of the shoppers here will be Ryerson students who can still find KD, diet coke and Mr. Noodle.  And maybe pick up a caramel cupcake at the cupcake wall (they’re big on the food walls here).  I should mention they make their own donuts in the bakery.  Apparently the recipe began at Zehrs and word is they are pretty good for dunkin’.

Loblaws is also trying to cater to ethnic tastes and have incorporated T&T to set up a sushi bar and have some of its products for sale.  Plus, there is a section just for asian greens. I love that this could be part of my everyday shopping.  (cuz I need more variety of vegetables going bad in my crisper–how I hate myself sometimes…)

Another nice touch is the ability to pay for items in each section of the store.  You can buy a juice at the juice bar, pay for your cheese at the cheese counter.  Makes shopping more efficient and if you forget an item (and I always forget an item) you don’t have to go back through checkout at the front of the store.

The aisles are wide–here’s a shot of the produce department from the upstairs kitchen (where all the “to go” food is prepared daily.  The chef told us that their goal -though they do work with Second Harvest–is to only make as much food as they will sell in a day.)  There is a butcher and fishmonger off to the left.

In a first impression I tweeted that the space was like a loft– it’s open, industrial, when you walk in they’ve kept part of the original wall from the Gardens.  There’s a sculpture made from the chairs in the original stadium in the shape of a Maple Leaf.   But— let’s get to that cheese wall.

Pretty impressive, right?  I kind of imagined it more open–like maybe I could actually climb it, finding toeholds amongst wedges of Gruyere and Comte.  But, this will do.

What is actually most impressive (and I hope this is kept up) is the quality of the cheese.  In the display case across from “the wall” were many soft and semi-soft cheese, all looking very ripe but the rinds still intact and in great shape. This is tricky at a large retailer when often you have to prepackage this type of cheese in unbreathable saran wrap.

Voila–they have introduced–breathable cheese paper for your fresh cut product. (Sobeys is hoping following suit–retail revolution people!!)

The cheese department here  will cut cheese on demand.  You can still reach into the fridges (those are sliding doors in the picture) and quickly grab a pre-cut piece of Mimolette (yes, they have Mimolette.  SCORE!) or cheddar.  But you can also turn around and have wedges cut smaller or request a taste.

On opening day Gurth Purdy (the cheese buyer and passionate supporter of artisinal cheese) and his team were cracking full parmesan wheels in the traditional way.  Check out this short demo from Whole Foods.  Quite an art.

They also are the exclusive Ontario carrier of a soft washed-rind, raw milk, Quebec cheese called Pied-de-Vent.  it used to be snuck into the province years ago but was not federally licensed.  It looked droolingly delicious.

Living in the east end, I’ll probably be sticking to my hood for the groceries but with a large parking lot beneath the store I might just head over from time to time to stroll the aisles. There’s a Joe Fresh and LCBO upstairs too. Eat, dress, drink.

No word yet if you can bring in a hockey stick for a quick face-off with some canned salmon.

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Caramels: The Cure for What Ails Ya

Some might recommend antibiotics for pneumonia (those would be the doctors) but us food bloggers like something that is more indulgent.  Like caramels.  If you’re craving caramels, no matter how sick, you know you’re generally OK.  And is it not a bucolic  ideal to be eating bons bons while lounging in bed?  Realistically, no one has time for that –except when taken ill with only enough strength to strip the crinkly, bright wrappers off the naked chocolates .

The caramels look much less 1970s than in this photo.

I recently had the opportunity to curl up with a box of the above. Fortune smiled upon me and said, “hey, get yourself some pneumonia and some bons bons”. The pneumonia arrived courtesy of the devil (I can’t be sure of that,  just a guess) and the chocolates came courtesy of President’s Choice.

It’s actually a chocolate and toffee “collection” (I’m giving up stamps immediatly -what was I thinking?) and the first thing I noticed is that all the 11  flavours on the chocolate map (see below for some blurry details) were tempting.  Not a chocolate brandy cherry in site.  I think I would eat the orange fondant last but my dad would head straight for it.

The chocolates are imported from England and you do feel like you just nipped into Marks and Spencers for a fix.

You can go ahead and buy them for as a hostess gift, but they’ll never make it, particularly if you’re too weak to get out of bed.

See, there’s an upside to congested lungs.  No, actually there’s not.  But eating these caramels will make you forget your woes for a bit.  (Take note Daytime TV).

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Toast Post: Black Label 8-Year Old Cheddar

Yes, I’m on a bit of a President’s Choice kick this week, I’m trying out some of the new Black Label line.  Today for breakfast I cracked open the 8-year old cheddar.

The PC cheddars are made for Loblaw by Mapledale and I’ve been a fan for a while.  Their 1 and 2-year-old cheddars are a staple in my cheese drawer.  Mellow but flavourful and I love the creamy finish.

This 8 yr old packs a wallop of flavour from first bite. It has the expected “sharpness” of an aged cheddar though I hesitate to use the word as I sometimes associate that with a higher acidity or hints of  bitterness in some older cheeses. This guy is very smooth and rounded.  Not so crumbly that it won’t hold its shape when sliced and it melts in the mouth to a creamy, delicate finish. I think this is perfect for pairing whether on a cheese board with a chutney or made into a sandwich with some Branston pickle.

The label says this cheddar is made from unpasteurized milk which I take to mean thermalized (still heat-treated but a gentler process).

Price?  Probably around $12-$13.  And in the case of this elderly gent, a little goes a long way.

(The cheese is reading over my shoulder and is offended by being called elderly.  I’m more freaked out that it can read.  Well, what else are you going to do sitting around in an ageing room for eight years, responds the cheese.  He recommends “The Sisters Brothers” for the 2011 Giller Prize by the way.)

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It’s a chocolate chip miracle!

It’s not everyday I gasp aloud in delight (aside from everytime I use my nutmeg grater) but I did squeal a little when I saw these Mini Butterscotch Melts from Presidents Choice.

I mean, I think the delight is self-explanatory, if you haven’t almost peed your pants in excitement as this point, I don’t know how to explain the new heights this will take your cookie baking.

Instead let me show you more pictures—

See, they are smaller than a peanut (though I acknowledge that this peanut appears monstrous).  So the beauty here is, you don’t have to add less chips or call your cookie “chocolate chunk”, it’s still chocolate chip but SUPERCHARGED.  (I also saw a suggestion to add them to banana bread which peaked my interest-or how about throwing them into a trail mix).

I caution you to not open a package before eating breakfast.  You may have a light bulb moment prompting you to put these into a bowl and cover them with milk.   This is a delusion.  Please toast some whole grain bread and melt the chips on top!  It’s just like Nutella but more nutritious.

Here’s what the pack looks like.  I got these in as part of a gift bag when I was invited into the President’s Choice Test Kitchen to try some new holiday products.  It was a bit of Willy Wonka experience (though not the trippy Gene Wilder version of the 70s) and I was fascinated to hear about the product development process.   I’ve always been curious.  More on that coming up.

For now– crave the chips.

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Alsace Riesling is my new Wingman

Lee Restaurant, King St (I stole this picture form their site, yes I did)

Inside Lee: not rainy

Last Tuesday, on a rainy, miserable night in Toronto I pulled my damp trench tight around me and made a dash for Lee on King Street.

Off with the trench and out with my hand to grab a glass of Alsatian Riesling as it passed by.  I was attending a dinner to celebrate the two winning chefs of the Vanguard Culinary Fusion and Wine Pairing Competition (let’s just call it Van-Fu Wi-Pa).  The Van-Fu Wi-Pa was a competition between 9 Toronto chefs to pair dishes with specific wines hailing from the Alsace and Rhone regions of France.  Head judge and host of the evening was Susur Lee in whose kitchen the two winners (Chef Shane Straiko from the Pantages Hotel and Misha Nesterenko from Marben) were preparing their food) while I sipped Riesling wondering why I drove to a wine event.

Before dinner they came out front to accept their accolades.  Both were extremely gratious but looked a little uncomfortable to have to leave the kitchen and speak to a room full of flashing iPhones and chants of “where’s the grub?”. (ok, there was not chanting…. just a disquieting murmur).

Susur's reaction when I told him I write a column just about cheese.

I was fortunate to have some great company at my table- Renée Suen from Toronto Life and David Ort and Suresh Doss from Spotlight Toronto.  We were also joined for part of the meal by Chef Lee and had a fun discussion about good pho (“that place on Ossington that’s not Golden Turtle”), food in general, travel and even a bit of cheese talk.

Misha Nesterenko plating during competition

My fave dish was Misha Nesterenko’s braised short ribs with  horseradish pomme puree, curly kale and butter glazed veggies.  It was paired with a Cotes du Rhone Village Rasteau (M. Chapoutier, 2009).   I took a bite, I took a sip of wine, I ate, I sipped…it was fluid.  A fairly classic dish as Misha had acknowledged at the beginning of the night but it worked.

No need for me to to post my dimly lit iPhone photos, you can taste similar pairings until November 11 at all the participating restaurants (the other 7 were Ultra Supper Club, The Bowery, Le Canard Mort, Veritas, Langdon Hall, TOCA and Ancaster Mill).

As for the my new wingman? Well, his name is actually Pierre Sparr.  We received a gift bag on the way out and in it were two bottles of wine (the above Riesling and a Gigondas). So far the Riesling had me looking like the best hostess ever at a small drop-in dinner I organized.   I reached for it to serve with the cheese board.   Suddenly people were looking me in the eye, telling me I was beautiful, laughing at my jokes…essentially distracting me any way they knew how while reaching into the fridge to get at this wine which I practically had to ration. The wine lover friend came back for more as did my friend who usually only drinks half a glass,  and even people who usually just buy “white” asked for label info. If it’s like the other Pierre Sparr wines at the LCBO it’s probably under $20.

God only knows what will happen when I open the Gigondas.  I’m hoping Genie.

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The Grossest Thing I’ve Seen in a Long Time

I discovered “Blood Syrup” at the Dollarama today while looking for loot bag treats for a Halloween party.

I don’t know what part of BLOOD SYRUP  most repulsed me the most:

*the fact that corn syrup is the first ingredient followed by sugar

*the fact 100G (1/2 the bag) of blood syrup is considered a “serving”

*or just the fact that this is meant for consumption at all.

I picked it up thinking it was fake blood.  My plan was to smear it on my face and head and lie limply at the bottom of the stairs on Halloween morning.

But then I saw that the bottom tube ends in a straw/ tube which kids can suck on. You know, I bet the Frankenstein gummis I just consumed  are also made of the same ingredients, but in liquid form, I can’t handle it.

Yet I was raised on corn syrup.  My mother would mix it with milk and put it in my bottle as an infant (this is true–it was cheaper than formula).

But she never dyed it red.  That’s just GROSS.

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Toast Post: Let’s call it “camping Brie”

Strangely enticing.

Have jug o’ wine, need cheese pairing?  This was my first thought when I received a little package of new products from Agropur the other day.  Three of their fine cheeses have been packed into spreadable format.

OKA, Brie L’Extra and Champfleury can now be scooped out of little 100g, recyclable plastic containers and straight onto you baguette.  It is suggested they can also be used as dips or easily melted into sauces.  To be perfectly honest it was hard to get beyond “spreadable” without jumping to Cheez Whiz conclusions.

You may be licking your lips if you’re one of “those” that doesn’t eat the rind of a Brie.  Yet, even as I disapprove of such antics, I must assume that you actually like the taste of a “Brie” that is not also referred to as a “processed fine cheese spread” and does not list “cheddar” as an ingredient.  Which is what you’re getting here.  It tastes kind of fake.   Not horribly bad–I enjoy a Kraft singles in a grilled cheese afterall-but, it’s not fine cheese.

I spread “the spread” on my toast, topped it with pear and have an surprisingly enjoyable lunch.   Fast and tidy it was.  If someone melted this into a silken sauce over my broccoli I’d probably think it was awesome.  It would also fair brilliantly packed in a camping cooler.

But while it might be OK to call Katy Perry “fine cheese”,  it just ain’t gonna fly with these guys.  But if you’re looking for an upscale take on Laughing Cow, dig in and see what you think.

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